Hall Lake: Exploring Northwest Montana through my eyes

The first sign that we were hitting the trail a bit too early in the season came about a mile into the hike. We had already climbed over a few downed trees, but I know better than to expect a perfectly maintained trail at the start of the season.

Nope, the first obvious sign to me that we weren’t in for an easy summer hike yet was the stream crossing on the Hall Lake trail near Swan Lake.

We knew to expect a stream crossing from our guidebook but weren’t anticipating a 10-yard wide, knee-deep stream, with no bridge.

It looked like there was once a log used for crossing with a rope tied above it. But the log had become dislodged, and was just another piece of wood among the jumble of fallen trees, making for treacherous footing.

This meant we were wading across, or turning back. So we unlaced our boots, hoped there were no sharp rocks in the streambed and came out on the other side with painfully numb feet.

A few weeks ago the prospect of fording a stream of snowmelt would have turned me around. But at the start of June, after weeks of sunshine, my itch to get into the mountains was too intense to ignore.

This is my first summer in Montana. While I spent four years attending the University of Montana in Missoula, summer jobs and internships always took me out of state during the nicest months. Since moving to the Flathead in September, I have been anxious to experience summer in the Valley and take advantage of everything this beautiful place has to offer.

Over the last several weeks my hiking partners and I have attempted quite a few hikes, and for various reasons haven’t been able to finish one.

A couple weeks ago we attempted the 5-mile hike to Priscilla Peak Lookout near Thompson Falls, and lost the trail about halfway due to snow.

A few weeks prior to that we hiked the Wolf Creek, or Broken Leg, trail near the Jewel Basin, but due to having to work that day, didn’t have the time to tackle all 9.5 miles.

As we searched for our next hike we were bound and determined to find something we could finish.

At a top elevation of 5,380 feet and 4.4 miles one way, Hall Lake seemed like a realistic half-day hike that we could complete. When we hit the trail last Sunday, the sun was shining, and there was talk of going for a dip when we got to the lake.

The stream crossing was just the first obstacle. As we continued on, more and more trees lay across the trail, and I cursed my decision to hike in shorts as I scraped my legs climbing over them.

But soon I was rewarded for my cold feet and bloody legs as we came to a rocky field and were granted a breathtaking view of Swan Lake behind us, and Sixmile Peak ahead of us.

Wildflowers grew along portions of the trail, coaxing me back into springtime happiness.

And then we hit the snow. Luckily the trail was still visible, so we pressed on, though my mood darkened every time I slipped on the soft, melting snow, or my foot fell through and left one leg thigh-deep in the crusty snow.

We came across a waterfall pouring across the trail that made for another yard-long, ankle-deep wade, but didn’t require boot removal.

Eventually we made it to the lake — peaceful, secluded and still covered in ice.

I couldn’t help but laugh and joke about still taking that swim.

I can only imagine by next month Hall Lake will make for a nice, easy day hike, ending with a refreshing swim before heading back out. But right now I don’t know that the destination is worth the obstacles. With all the snow, we weren’t really able to sit and enjoy it. But I’ve found over the years, hikes that present that many challenges are usually the most memorable.

Eventually my memory of what the lake looked like and even the spectacular view of Swan Lake from the trail will fade ¬— but I’ll always remember the journey.

I’ll remember making bets as we hiked out on how many downed trees we climbed over — about 28. I’ll remember my numb feet every time I cross a stream on my summer hikes, and be thankful for the bridges that are still intact.

But mostly, I know it was an adventure that I will recall when I think of my first summer in the Flathead.

To find the trail from Bigfork, take Montana 83 to Swan Lake. Just south of mile marker 72 turn east onto Fenby Lane next to the Laughing Horse Inn. Follow the signs to the trailhead.